Monday 23 July 2018

New Zealand - Te Araroa Days 10 - 19

Tramping Day 10  Nov 29th Te Anau Highway to Camp at Kiwi Burn Car Park 29km
I got dropped off at Mavora Lakes Road end. There is 10km roadwalk (gravel with little traffic) then a 17km route on the Mavora River Track to the junction for Kiwi Burn hut .
The Mavora River Track is described on the trail notes as very tough going and difficult to follow the markers so I opted to stay on the Mavora Lakes road and at about the 265.5km mark there is a swingbridge you can cross. This can be accessed down a small track on your left that goes past a quarry – see pic
Near the swingbridge there is a toilet and some nice flat areas for camping. 
I wondered if I should have gone up the track and felt a bit guilty about taking the easy option but later heard stories about  people finding the Mavora River Track very unpleasant...personal choice at the end of the day.

Tramping Day 11  Nov 30th Camp at Swing Bridge to Carey Hut 23km

Early start on a lovely day – forest intially then along the lakeside – very picturesque along the Mavora Walkway. Very flat so easy tramping – "cruisey" as they say over here...
 Ended up staying at Carey's hut which has a great setting at near the top of North Mavora Lake (see pic above) – I had originally aimed for Boundary Hut but I would recommend you stay at Carey's

Tramping Day 12  Dec 1st Carey Hut  to Greenstone Hut 28km
 
Pretty flat with a few tussock/forest areas but nothing like I experienced in Southland. 

Taipo hut in the distance
Taipo Hut which was on the way would have been a poor choice and did not have water when I passed it – I wouldn't aim to stay there if you can avoid it.
Greenstone hut is a serviced hut so pretty nice - even nicer with a moonrise...


December 2nd to December 7th  - From Greenstone Hut instead of heading to Queenstown I did another side trip off the TA  to take in the Greenstone-Caples and Routeburn Tracks – well worthwhile if you have the time – read about it here.

Tramping Day 13 Dec 8th Queenstown to Big Hill (German Hill) Saddle 36km


Very flat walking along the Queenstown Walking Track. There is a Countdown about 6km out of Queenstown which you can for resupply if you don't want to use the smaller supermarkets in QT itself. The walking track isn't that spectacular but pleasant enough on a nice day. 
Shotover River


It was interesting passing through Millbrook – a golf course resort  - it was like an English village recreated in NZ!! Can't believe they let us smelly trampers go through it!!  Was tempted to pop into the bar for a pint but it probably would have been $$$!
Millbrook
Eventually I hit the hills - good to be back...
I didn't stop in Arrowtown but continued up to Big Hill Saddle – quite a slog – 700m of elevation in 7km. I found a nice camping spot shortly after coming off the saddle -  probably near the 367km mark near a old run down private hut (locked) - the porch area provided a bit of shelter from the wind to cook up.
The view from my camping spot - cooking up a storm on the right!
Tramping Day 14  Dec 9th  Big Hill Saddle to Roses Hut 15km
Bit of a late start waiting for early morning rain to stop – eventually got on the trail by 9am. A stunning start to the day walking down to the Arrow River through fields of lupins.
 
 There were a few stream crossings today – nothing to worry about - knee height only. I then passed through an old abandoned goldmining town called Macetown (no residents today!) Would be a good place to camp but a further 5km on from my campsite which would make a 41km day Queenstown - Macetown or vice versa.
 
It was then the start of the Motatapu Track which took me to Wanaka. Very nice tramping with nice huts and great scenery. Quite a tough accent of 700km in about 3km up to Roses Saddle then an easy decent down to the hut.



Rose's Hut is a tiny speck in the distance 
Started raining a few minutes after I got to the hut - then this amazing rainbow appeared...
Always good to have company on the track!
Tramping Day 15 Dec 10th  Roses Hut to Highland Creek Hut 10km
2 big saddles to get over – both about 1200 m – the track was a bit narrow in places with some tricky traverses. Nice views from the top.
Another nice rainbow this morning
 The huts had a few people in them as this is a popular walking track from Wanaka  so it's quite good socially. As usual conversation was dominated by food – what we would like to be eating rather than what we were! I did share my recipe for Trampers Pizza - see here for details in the Food section of my TA Logistics post
Pair of old boots at the top of a saddle - and on the right... the route down to the hut was a bit steep!!
Tramping Day 16 Dec 11th Highland Creek Hut to Fern Burn Hut 6km
Just a half day tramp today – you could do Roses to Fern Burn in a day if you want to push on fast but I wanted to pace myself after my experiences in the first week. 



Great views from the top of Jack Hall's Saddle. Another nice hut – all 3 huts on the Motatapu hut are about 10 years old so they are in good shape.
Fern Burn Hut
Tramping Day 17 Dec 12th  Fern Burn Hut to Wanaka 25km
Quite a tricky 7km decent down to the car park – lots of thick wet undergrowth as it followed the river– might be good to wear gaiters/waterproofs. Then it was 18km into Wanaka – quite pleasant along Glendhu Bay Track which mostly follows the lake edge – very pleasant on a sunny day. Once you get to Wanaka reward yourself with an ice cream at Black Peak Ice Cream!
Classic NZ - sheep and sheep poo for sale...!! :-)
Lake Wanaka
Black Peak Ice Cream - because I'm worth it ! :-)
Tramping Day 18 Dec 13th Wanaka to Lake Hawea 25km
A very flat tramp today – nothing very inspiring about this route until you get to Lake Hawea which is beautiful.
            Stayed at the hostel which is behind Lake Hawea Hotel – lovely hotel to sit and have a beer (try the Bird Dog) - gorgeous lake view.


Tramping Day 19 Dec 14th Lake Hawea to Pakituhi Hut 15km
An easy start to the day walking along the edge of Lake Hawea – I was fortunate to have a beautiful day with no one else about – wonderful...


Then the hard work began the ascent from lake level – 1000m of ascent in 4km 
 
 

Some scrambling invoved here – but amazing visual rewards over the lake and to the Aspiring Range.

 I opted to stay at Pakituhi hut rather than going onto Stodys as it's a much nicer & more modern – Stodys is basic – make that very basic! I left my pack at Pakituhi and went up Breast Hill (4km return – 2 hours) without a pack which made things enjoyable.

Views from the top of Breast Hill
                                                  Pakituhi Hut