Friday 22 November 2013

La Habana Loco!

Crazy Havana is the word - quite unlike any other place I have been to!


Colourful Habana
The days in Havana were interesting - I had about 5 days at the clinic and 3 wandering round. Havana is a big city about 2 million (out of 11 million Cubans total with a land area about 80% of England) but the most interesting areas are the Old City and Centro which is the area (barrio) next door - Centro is certainly more representative of how ordinary Habeneros live and the balcony from my Casa Particular (B&B) afforded a great view of Cuban street life - Dominoes is a big interest here and you can find groups of men playing with a passion I did not know you could generate for dominoes!
Dominoes rule here!
 
Street Dogs
Communist Party Poster
Lots of Inspirational Murals of leaders past and present...
Wandering through the streets of Centro all windows and doors are open - people live their lives in full view of one another - you can literally see from one street to another through the houses - I say houses - in Centro they are Old Palacios - merchants houses built in the profits of sugar and tobacco - if Havana had been preserved like London or Paris it would be one of the most incredible cities in the world - I got an opportunity to visit some of the houses with a volunteer from the clinic to administer some of the flea control I had taken over - a lot of the houses have numerous props keeping walls and ceilings from falling in - none of them have windows - the glass long gone - there is electric light but all cooking is done on small gas rings and water is brought in to a communal tank and distributed amongst the building families - often these building are owned by the state - rents are low - about £2 a month - electricity (when its on - powercuts are common) gas and water another £2 - however incomes are low also at £15 a month - the state wage - whether you are a doctor or a roadsweeper the wage is the same. The Cubans have a saying - "They pretend to pay us and we pretend to work"
No advertising here...well only for the Revolution!
A large metal sculpture of Che
Trumpeter sitting on the Malecon wall
Blowing that horn...
Pink Cadillac
Street Dog
Food is the major expense - there is still a ration system in place for basics like rice beans flour eggs - the Cubans queue a long time holding their Libretas (ration cards) for these basics - however it is just about half what is required to feed a family and other food has to be obtained at market price
Typical Habana Centro street
Baseball is an obsession...
Queueing with the Libreta
The state however controls everything - Cubans are looked after by the state like a mother looks after a baby - no one goes hungry - there are no homeless - literacy is high - medical standards are good - but the price is not having a say in how things are run - all laws and regulations are created by a very small group of people - no elections - no free speech - one daily State newspaper - curiously called Granma ( it was the name of Fidel's boat when he and Che landed back in Cuba to start the Revolution) - no freedom of choice and very little freedom of information - all things we take totally for granted - our society in not perfect but for us freedom is everything - most Cubans are contented although they find life somewhat of a struggle - however after 55 years of Revolutionary Government and before that puppet dictatorships no one has a clue what democracy would be like - that fear of the unknown keeps Castroism going - the regime is not cruel but it doesn't give most people a good quality of life either - no doubt democracy will come but like all things in Cuba it will take time!
Fishing on the Malecon
Waves crashing over the Malecon
Old American car cruising the Malecon
Kid sitting on the Malecon Wall
Inside one of the Old Palacios
All very interesting - now lets talk about those other traveler essentials - drink food and wifi - on not talk about them perhaps - wonder why there are no Cuban restaurants on the high street? Now I know - imagine every restaurant in town with the same menu - pork rice beans or chicken rice beans or "meat" rice beans - still only 5 weeks to go! Beer is limited to 2 choices Cristal 4.9% and Bucanero 5.4% - I go for Bucaneros until they run out which is common!
Street Dogs and Old Cars - that's Habana!
I even managed to find a bar in Havana where they ran out of the ingredients to make a mojito! Wifi - well that would be would be just the one hotspot in Havana - the Government allows internet but it is so slow and expensive ( 20% of a monthly wage per hour) that it is outwith a normal Cubans reach - now my cameras are back in action ( I have not had to hit my main one for over a week and my small one responded to an exploratory laparotomy plus a clinic person has lent me one!) I have lots of great pics but uploading them to the blog may be a challenge - we'll see when I get to the internet place - I am writing this on a tablet in my Casa which is a great advantage over my last trip where I spent hours in cafes editing the photos and writing text - now if only my Casa had wi-fi....!