Before staying in Medellin I spent a couple of days visiting sleepy Antioquian peublos (Antioquia is the region of Colombia Medellin is in) My first stop was Santa Fe de Antioquia - reminded me of Granada in Nicaragua - colonial and hot!
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| Santa Fe de Antioquia |
The only difference was the complete absence of tourists! I was just about the only gringo in town! I wandered around it\s atmospheric streets and on the last morning took a run out to the famous wooden Western Suspension Bridge that is about 130 years old - I decided to cross it the same way the cars do - the pedestrian path across looking a tad dangerous!
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| The Western Bridge - this is the car route! |
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| Pedestrian Walkway! |
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| The bridge from the other side of the river |
If that was hair raising more excitement was in store - I was just leaving my hostel for the bus station and found myself walking past 300kg of Cocaine the police had seized and laid out on the cobbles for the press and public to see - only in Colombia!
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| Morning!! |
I moved onto another lovely pueblo called Guatape - this town is know for it
's Zocalos - colourful frescoes on the bottom half of the buidings here.
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| Colourful Guatape |
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| Even the Tuk-Tuks are colourful here! |
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| Beautiful Guatape street |
They also have a wonderful plaza which had an amazing Palm Sunday procession - the start of Semana Santa - Holy Week here in Colombia - there are processions and ceremonies every day from Monday to Sunday and the whole town comes into the plaza to celebrate. The Friday, Saturday and Sunday equate to our Easter
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| Palm Sunday procession in Guatape |
Guatape is also famous for El Penol - a big rock on the outskirts which gives fantastic views over the area
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| El Penol |
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| ...and the view! |
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| Guess what I found! |
It was soon time to head into the city of Medellin I was lucky enough to stay with the brother of the wife of a friend´s brother - yep I will use any connection regardless of how tenuous!! Muchas gracias Juan-David and Kelly!
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| Medellin from the cable car |
Medellin is an interesting place - 15 years ago it was the most dangerous city in the world - the transformation is nothing short of astounding - a true testament to the optimism of the Paisa - as the people in this area are called. I went on an amazing walking tour of the city
www.realcitytours.com which gave a fascinating insight into what Medellin was and has become.
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| Plaza de La Luz - things are looking up in Medellin! |
The drug wars among the cartels (the biggest led by Pablo Escobar) led to shootings, kidnappings and bombs - many of those casualties were innocent Colombians. The cartels used and paid the guerilla groups like FARC (Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia - Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) to look after coca production - this money armed FARC - hence the violence of FARC and the drug cartels was inextricably linked - all driven by the West´s appetite for cocaine...seeing that Botero statue blown apart and the plaque underneath it with the 25 names and ages ( the youngest 7)... makes you think...
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| Our guide showing us the Botero that was blown apart by FARC during a music concert and the plaque listing the dead |
But Medellin is like a phoenix - with new urban development and a spotless metro - the people there are among the friendliest in Colombia - an amazing place!!
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| Botero sculpture - loosely based on what my abs look like! |
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| Boteros impression of Pablo Escobar getting what he deserved... |
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| A Botero inside the museum with view of the cathedral outside |
Fernando Botero is Medellin´s most famous artist. His style is all curves and volume - like a Latin Beryl Cook! His artistic donations to the city are huge - over 200 pieces worth millions of dollars When his statue was blown up the Mayor of Medellin´s first instinct was to have it cleared away but Botero called and urged him to leave it. He then sculped an identical sculpture which now sits a few metres away - the original statue is called the "Injured Bird" and the newer one the "Bird of Peace"
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| "Injured Bird" and the "Bird of Peace" |
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| Inside the museum |
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| I am assuming he is Mafia... |
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| What I really saw from the top of the cable car - see I don't get great weather all the time!! |
The Colombians really want to put their torrid past behind them and they would rather be known for the good things about this country - so let´s talk coffee and great scenery! For that I had to head south!
Comments? Questions? Suggestions? email me at
iain.mcallister@googlemail.com
