Colombian cities - some lost, some found

The first stop was the beautiful colonial town of Cartagena - but like all beautiful places it was  expensive and full of tourists - not really my style... however it´s charms were undeniable and even I succumbed!

Colourful Cartagena

Chilling on the city wall

Cartagena City Wall with locals escaping the heat

It´s not Panama but hats are still for sale!

 Luckily I found a cool part of town called Getsemani - a few years ago it was a dangerous place to visit but as the historic centre has become more Disneyfied this area has rejuvenated with authentic plazas, boutique shops, good restaurants and amazing wall art

Getsemani Murals

A few days later I arrived up the coast in Santa Marta - another colonial town - however the real draw here is the Cuidad Perdita - the Lost City of the Tairona tribe

Senso at the beginning of the trail

The trek there and back is lovely - with easy trails, amazing jungle and mountain scenery and if you get hot there´s always a nice cool river to relax in. 

Beautiful scenery on the trek

River crossing - in the rainy season it´s up to your waist!

Back in a hammock!

Camp Visitors!!

Discovered in 1972 Ciudad Perdida consists of a series of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, a network of cobbled pathways and several small circular plazas.

 The entrance can only be accessed by a climb up some 1,200 stone steps through dense jungle. In the early years of 2000 it was a dangerous hike - not due to the steepness of the trails but due to the risk of kidnappings

Climbing the steps

All is safe now and we were accompanied by our indigenous guide Senso on a beautiful 4 day hike. The Lost City is no Machu Picchu but then again you don´t get MP to yourself like we did when we arrived at the Lost City...

The Lost City!

Senso and his family survey the Sierra Nevada

Senso was from the Wiwa tribe - one of 4 different tribes in the area. What he is wearing is the traditional way of dressing. An essential piece of kit for Senso was his Poporro

Senso holding his Poporo and showing the coca

In the Sierra Nevada mountains dried coca leaves  are consumed  by the Kogi, Arhuaco and Wiwa tribes. The poporo bulb contains a powdered shell substance that is taken in the mouth and chewed with the coca leaves - this enables more effective release of the stimulant. The stick is then rubbed against the outside of the Poporro in a very medatitive way - almost like a comfort blanket effect.

Dried Coca leaves

The poporo is the mark of manhood. It is given to the male members of the tribe at the age of 17. The bulb represents the womb and the stick is a phallic symbol. The movements of the stick in the poporo symbolise... well use your imagination!


Coca is still grown in these areas but in small quantities for traditional use - they carry the dried leaves around in a small woollen sack. When meeting friends it is common to exchange coca leaves as a sign of comradeship  
On the trek we met many members of another tribe - the Kogi - their village was on the side of the track

Kogi Village

Kogi villager riding out

The only slightly scary thing on the trek was when a scorpion dropped from the roof of the camp onto my neck - I brushed it away thinking it was a fly and was surprised to see what landed on the ground! "Muy peligroso" commented Senso - not that it would have killed me - a sting would have made me nauseous and shaky  for about 24 hours - so I was glad to avoid a sting!

Back in town I hopped on the night bus towards Medellin. - Bogota may be the capital but Medellin really is the soul of Colombia....


Comments? Questions? Suggestions? email me at iain.mcallister@googlemail.com