Medellin Moments

Before staying in Medellin  I spent a couple of days visiting sleepy Antioquian peublos (Antioquia is the region of Colombia Medellin is in) My first stop was Santa Fe de Antioquia - reminded me of Granada in Nicaragua - colonial and hot!

Santa Fe de Antioquia

The only difference was the complete absence of tourists! I was just about the only gringo in town! I wandered around it\s atmospheric streets and on the last morning took a run out to the famous wooden Western Suspension Bridge that is about 130 years old - I decided to cross it the same way the cars do - the pedestrian path across looking a tad dangerous! 

The Western Bridge - this is the car route!

Pedestrian Walkway!

The bridge from the other side of the river

If that was hair raising more excitement was in store - I was just leaving my hostel for the bus station and found myself walking past 300kg of Cocaine the police had seized and laid out on the cobbles for the press and public to see - only in Colombia!

Morning!!

I moved onto another lovely pueblo called Guatape - this town is know for it's Zocalos - colourful frescoes on the bottom half of the buidings here.

Colourful Guatape

Even the Tuk-Tuks are colourful here!

Beautiful Guatape street

They also have a wonderful plaza which had an amazing Palm Sunday procession - the start of Semana Santa - Holy Week here in Colombia - there are processions and ceremonies every day from Monday to Sunday and the whole town comes into the plaza to celebrate. The Friday, Saturday and Sunday equate to our Easter

Palm Sunday procession in Guatape

Guatape is also famous for El Penol - a big rock on the outskirts which gives fantastic views over the area

El Penol

...and the view!

Guess what I found!

It was soon time to head into the city of Medellin I was lucky enough to stay with the brother of the wife of a friend´s brother - yep I will use any connection regardless of how tenuous!! Muchas gracias Juan-David and Kelly!

Medellin from the cable car

Medellin is an interesting place - 15 years ago it was the most dangerous city in the world - the transformation is nothing short of astounding  - a true testament to the optimism of the Paisa - as the people in this area are called. I went on an amazing walking tour of the city www.realcitytours.com which gave a fascinating insight into what Medellin was and has become.

Plaza de La Luz - things are looking up in Medellin!

The drug wars among the cartels (the biggest led by Pablo Escobar) led to shootings, kidnappings and bombs - many of those casualties were innocent Colombians. The cartels used and paid the guerilla groups like FARC (Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia - Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) to look after coca production - this money armed FARC - hence the violence of FARC and the drug cartels was inextricably linked - all driven by the West´s appetite for cocaine...seeing that Botero statue  blown apart and the plaque underneath it with the 25 names and ages ( the youngest 7)... makes you think...

Our guide showing us the Botero that was blown apart by FARC during a music concert and the plaque listing the dead

But Medellin is like a phoenix - with new urban development and a spotless metro - the people there are among the friendliest in Colombia - an amazing place!!

Botero sculpture - loosely based on what my abs look like!

Boteros impression of Pablo Escobar getting what he deserved...

A Botero inside the museum with view of the cathedral outside

Fernando Botero is Medellin´s most famous artist. His style is all curves and volume - like a Latin Beryl Cook! His artistic donations to the city are huge - over 200 pieces worth millions of dollars When his statue  was blown up the Mayor of Medellin´s first instinct was to have it cleared away but Botero called and urged him to leave it. He then sculped an identical sculpture which now sits a few metres away - the original statue is called the "Injured Bird" and the newer one the "Bird of Peace"

"Injured Bird" and  the "Bird of Peace"

Inside the museum

I am assuming he is Mafia...

What I really saw from the top of the cable car - see I don't get great weather all the time!!

The Colombians really want to put their torrid past behind them and they would rather be known for the good things about this country - so let´s talk coffee and great scenery! For that I had to head south!

Comments? Questions? Suggestions? email me at iain.mcallister@googlemail.com

Colombian cities - some lost, some found

The first stop was the beautiful colonial town of Cartagena - but like all beautiful places it was  expensive and full of tourists - not really my style... however it´s charms were undeniable and even I succumbed!

Colourful Cartagena

Chilling on the city wall

Cartagena City Wall with locals escaping the heat

It´s not Panama but hats are still for sale!

 Luckily I found a cool part of town called Getsemani - a few years ago it was a dangerous place to visit but as the historic centre has become more Disneyfied this area has rejuvenated with authentic plazas, boutique shops, good restaurants and amazing wall art

Getsemani Murals

A few days later I arrived up the coast in Santa Marta - another colonial town - however the real draw here is the Cuidad Perdita - the Lost City of the Tairona tribe

Senso at the beginning of the trail

The trek there and back is lovely - with easy trails, amazing jungle and mountain scenery and if you get hot there´s always a nice cool river to relax in. 

Beautiful scenery on the trek

River crossing - in the rainy season it´s up to your waist!

Back in a hammock!

Camp Visitors!!

Discovered in 1972 Ciudad Perdida consists of a series of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, a network of cobbled pathways and several small circular plazas.

 The entrance can only be accessed by a climb up some 1,200 stone steps through dense jungle. In the early years of 2000 it was a dangerous hike - not due to the steepness of the trails but due to the risk of kidnappings

Climbing the steps

All is safe now and we were accompanied by our indigenous guide Senso on a beautiful 4 day hike. The Lost City is no Machu Picchu but then again you don´t get MP to yourself like we did when we arrived at the Lost City...

The Lost City!

Senso and his family survey the Sierra Nevada

Senso was from the Wiwa tribe - one of 4 different tribes in the area. What he is wearing is the traditional way of dressing. An essential piece of kit for Senso was his Poporro

Senso holding his Poporo and showing the coca

In the Sierra Nevada mountains dried coca leaves  are consumed  by the Kogi, Arhuaco and Wiwa tribes. The poporo bulb contains a powdered shell substance that is taken in the mouth and chewed with the coca leaves - this enables more effective release of the stimulant. The stick is then rubbed against the outside of the Poporro in a very medatitive way - almost like a comfort blanket effect.

Dried Coca leaves

The poporo is the mark of manhood. It is given to the male members of the tribe at the age of 17. The bulb represents the womb and the stick is a phallic symbol. The movements of the stick in the poporo symbolise... well use your imagination!


Coca is still grown in these areas but in small quantities for traditional use - they carry the dried leaves around in a small woollen sack. When meeting friends it is common to exchange coca leaves as a sign of comradeship  
On the trek we met many members of another tribe - the Kogi - their village was on the side of the track

Kogi Village

Kogi villager riding out

The only slightly scary thing on the trek was when a scorpion dropped from the roof of the camp onto my neck - I brushed it away thinking it was a fly and was surprised to see what landed on the ground! "Muy peligroso" commented Senso - not that it would have killed me - a sting would have made me nauseous and shaky  for about 24 hours - so I was glad to avoid a sting!

Back in town I hopped on the night bus towards Medellin. - Bogota may be the capital but Medellin really is the soul of Colombia....


Comments? Questions? Suggestions? email me at iain.mcallister@googlemail.com