Monday, 23 July 2018

New Zealand - Te Araroa Days 30-39

Tramping Day 30 Dec 26th 2017 Wild Camping Richmond Trail to Camp Stream Hut  18km

Straightforward tramp although a bit uphill at the start - some wet ground to cover near the hut. The hut is private run by the MacKenzie Alpine Trust  
The donation  is $10 - super little old musterer's hut with a great woodburner and lots of wood - so do the right thing..apparently the average donation is less than a dollar!) Even in December it was chilly up there - hut is at about 900m.

Tramping Day 31 Dec 27th 2017 Camp Stream Hut to Royal Hut  15km
If the weather is good take the ridge route (very flat ridge - easy tramping) to Stag Saddle - amazing views over Lake Tekapo


Well worthwhile nipping up Beuzenberg peak - will only take 20 minutes return - leave your pack back on the ridge. 

Stag Saddle is the highest point on the TA at 1925m - so I think a pat on the back and a selfie is in order

Then it's a couple of hours downhill to Royal Hut so called because Charles and Anne visited...but I believe they didn't rough it and stay... and they didn't walk in either -  DOC kindly dropped them off by helicopter!! He didn't even leave any of his famous biscuits! :-)
An alternative would to be push another 6km onto Stone Hut - Stone and Royal Huts very similar - one isn't any better than the other. 
Royal Hut
Tramping Day 32 Dec 28th 2017 Royal Hut to Crooked Spur Hut  18km
Bit of scree climbing today and then a straightforward descent down to the hut....

It was actually full - so I had to camp - first full hut of my TA so far... might be a hut worth getting to early as it's popular with hunters. Great view down to the Rangitata though...
Camp Stream Hut
Tramping Day 33 Dec 29th 2017 Crooked Spur Hut - Potts River Camp 11km 
The decent following Bush Steam is a pretty tough start to the day - the first crossing in fact is quite deep but only a a few metres across but there are numerous other crossings and it's 3-4 hours of hard tramping to get down to the car park
Looking back at Camp Stream Hut
One of the big TA  decisions is whether to cross the Rangitata river or not. It's a totally personal choice and if you do cross it please assess the risks in detail.  River volume is a strong indicator whether it is safe - when I crossed there had been little rain in the previous 10 days and the river volume was low
On the left the Rangitata from the air spotted  as I flew south to Invercargill - was weird seeing it and knowing I might be crossing it 6 weeks  later!
Check the flow at https://www.ecan.govt.nz/data/riverflow/sitedetails/69302 or Google "Rangitata River Flow". This is not the flow at the crossing point but gives an idea of volume. My crossing was  55 m3/s (also called cumecs) but I believe anything under 80 is good. You will only be able to check the flow online in Tekapo 3 days before crossing so if there is significant rain in the catchment areas the volume could be very different. New Zealand rivers go up and down quickly and a straightforward crossing can turn bad.. 
Heading down the Bush Stream before reaching the Rangitata bottom right - doesn't really look like a river at ground level..
In the end my NOBO Rangitata crossing was straightforward - this is a braided river - only 4 of the braids were large - the deepest - the first for me (the last going SOBO) was the deepest at mid thigh - all the others were knee deep or less. The key is to go well upstream - almost 2km almost up to the 500m contour from the car park (or from Potts River Bridge depending NOBO/SOBO). This means more braids but more braids is good as it divides the water volume. 

I did post a kmz file of my route on the Facebook TA group but got a bit of flaming from the moderator but in my view people are going to cross and reading about peoples's experiences who have is valuable - it's not for everyone and is a calculated risk - your call... Personal Location Beacon essential if you're going to do this sort of thing...

Camped at Potts River camp just over the bridge - nice spot as you can see below
Tramping Day 34 Dec 30th 2017 Potts River Camp to Manuka Hut  36km 
Big day - easy tramping but a long way -  no real nice sheltered camping spots so elected to push on to Manuka Hut.
Scenery not spectacular (I'd been spoiled...!) but the hut is interesting with a list of the musters on the outside of the hut and also some old oil drum "dog kennels" 

Manuka Hut - dog kennel to the left of the door. Note the musters listed on the metal door panels....Below inside the hut with a classic bit of Kiwi ingenuity - oil barrel storage cupboard!

Tramping Day 35 Dec 31 2017 Manuka Hut to Double Hut  6km 
I needed an easy day after my big walk the day before - I could have pushed onto A-Frame hut but it would have been an extremely tough day - so it was a lazy morning at Manuka and a short stroll to Double. Rumour has it that Sir Ed stayed there while climbing a local peak and signed his name - see this newspaper article  I found a lot of others but not his - wasn't sure where exactly to look as I didn't see the article until I got back to civilisation. There is a panel missing above the fireplace so possibly it was there...It was a nice place to see in the New Year - saying that I was asleep when it happened and there was no alcohol! Tramping Day 36 Jan 1st 2018 Double Hut to A-Frame Hut   23 km 

I think heading for A-Frame is a better option than staying at Comyns Hut - it takes you 7km further on to Glenrock Stream car park from where you will have to hitch to Methven - in the morning getting on that road in in 2 hours is better than the 4½ it will take you from Comyns

This day is tough - there's a fair climb up roughish terrain to Client Hills Saddle but the hardest part is the decent down Round Hill Creek and then the North Branch Ashburton River - initially you can swap bank to bank but eventually the matagouri ( thick and thorny!) 
 bushes prevent you do this so you have to tramp the river bed - would be difficult or impossible if the river was up...
The dreaded Matagouri - they are also great at piercing your water bladders!
Somebody has placed 2 deckchairs at the top of the saddle - great place to have lunch and take in the view!!
Past Comyns Hut the route is easy to A-Frame - nice hut but only 3 beds - no one there though - I don't think it would be common for SOBO's to stay there and NOBO's are rare as hen's teeth...
A Frame Hut
Tramping Day 37 Jan 2nd 2018 A-Frame Hut to Glenrock Stream Car Park  9 km
Easy 9km today mostly descent on good tracks/4WD - will only take 2½ hours. Once on the road it's a hitch to Methven...

Crossing the Raikaia is not recommended... 
If you were even thinking about watch these 2 videos - Video 1   Video 2
In the second video you can see the guy on the ground realises he has had a near death experience...!!
Hitching to Methven isn't that easy either! I had to walk about an hour before I got a lift from a fisherman and then from a family heading through Methven - earlier you get on the road the better. January 3rd to 5th - I had scheduled 2 nights in Methven but huge rain extended that to 4...I stayed at the Snow Denn - nice place - $20 for TA trampers.
The Rakaia River
Tramping Day 38 Jan 6th 2018 Lake Coleridge Lodge to Harper River Camp 36km 
 
Long not vastly exciting walk to a not vastly exciting campsite - hitching out of Methven was a bit of a mission - it's 47km to Lake Coleridge Lodge  had to walk about 5 km before I got a lift  - I started at 8am - any earlier and there would be even less traffic - it was a Saturday though. Any later and you might struggle to get to Harper River before dark..

Lake Coleridge
Make that Te Araroa User  :-)  No one else there as per usual!
It's mostly 4WD track and gravel road walking - the campsite is free and has a long drop but there is little grass to pitch on... Harper River Camp 
Took some quirky New Zealand photos to relieve the boredom... Far left - locals are not too keen on campers around here - there was about 6 of those signs! Middle - battered armchair on the porch - a classic Kiwi look...:-) Far right - by far the most battered post box in NZ with a half assed number 8 wire repair :-)
Tramping Day 39 Jan 7th 2018 Harper River Camp to Hamilton Hut 19km 
A fairly easy tramp today over flat valley ground - watch the way marking - there are other tracks in this area and I went off  the TA at one point so keep checking the GPS to make sure you are the right route... (head right up the Harper River - not left up the Avoca River - the TA poles seem to evaporate at this point...)
Hamilton Hut - one of the nicest on the TA